Why Natural Fabrics Are Essential For Summer Dressing
When the temperature on the thermometer creeps up to 85 degrees, 90 degrees, and above, I find myself pulling out all the stops to stay cool. Standing by the open freezer. Taking cool showers. Moving around as little as possible.
But, as it turns out, the clothing I put on is one of the most reliable ways to stay comfortable in the heat. And while I can hang around in tiny tank tops and shorts at home, it’s a different story when it comes to running errands, meeting up with friends, or — god forbid — working. (My typical uniform of wool trousers does not cut it in the heat.)
Choosing clothing with natural fibers is one of the most effective ways to stay cool in the heat on days when you (some might say unfortunately) have to be fully clothed. In fact, you might find yourself more comfortable wearing a linen set that offers extra coverage as opposed to a tank and jean shorts. The extra coverage can protect you from the sun and mosquitos, and help you stay dry when you’re sweaty.
“Choosing clothing with natural fibers is one of the most effective ways to stay cool in the heat on days when you (some might say unfortunately) have to be fully clothed.”
So, when dressing for the heat, “look for pieces with cotton and linen,” explains Brian Mendoza, the senior apparel designer at Kotn. “It’s also important to consider the weave and fit of the fabrics, as that can impact how breathable an item is,” he explains. “The looser the knit and fit, the more breathable and comfortable the item will be.”
While these fibers tend to cost more — especially organic cotton and linen — you’ll find some tips below on how to scan your closet for good options, as well as shop for natural fibers with affordability in mind.
Why choose natural fabrics in the heat?
Lottie Bertello, founder and design director of LOTI, an upcycling design studio based between Peru and LA, has previously told The Good Trade that she sticks to natural fibers. “There are many benefits to a garment made from cotton, linen, hemp, silk, wool, alpaca, bamboo, etc.,” she says, “including their longevity, and the literal effect they have on your body.”
Synthetic fabrics tend to be, in the best case, not super breathable, and in the worst cases, irritating to the skin depending on how cheaply they were developed.
“Synthetic fabrics tend to be, in the best case, not super breathable, and in the worst cases, irritating to the skin depending on how cheaply they were developed.”
Studies tend to back this up, too — in this one, researchers found that a t-shirt made of 95% cotton and 5% spandex felt the coolest on a hot day of all the fabrics tested, beating out a shirt of 100% recycled polyester by a significant margin. Just because a fabric feels cool to the touch doesn’t necessarily mean it’ll keep you the coolest — that’s where weave and breathability come in.
Cotton, linen, and hemp, because of their weave and the makeup of the actual fibers, allow air to circulate more freely than synthetic fabrics like nylon, viscose, and acrylic. “Avoid anything with high amounts of synthetics, like polyester and elastane, which will trap heat and moisture,” says Courtney Lewis, chief product officer at Pact.
Because natural fibers come from the earth, they tend to be biodegradable (as long as they’re not chemically treated). And they have a low density but a high strength-to-weight ratio, so they don’t weigh much but they hold up to regular wear and tear quite well.
In fact, linen only gets softer and softer with time. Another linen summertime perk: The thicker fabric makes it harder for mosquitoes to get through! And, barring all breathability concerns, linen is incredibly chic — how gorgeous are these pants? Linen is having a true moment right now, and even though we try to steer clear of trends, we love this one since linen is so durable and timeless.
Plus, natural fabrics’ production tends to be gentler on the planet than the production of synthetics, which pollutes highly along every step of its production chain. “If [an] item is something you want to have for a very long time, natural fabrics age well and take on character much better than synthetics,” says Mendoza. So, while natural fabrics typically have a higher price tag, consider their longevity on the other end of the investment.
“Natural fabrics’ production tends to be gentler on the planet than the production of synthetics, which pollutes highly along every step of its production chain.”
“Cotton, hemp, linen, wool, and silk have proven to be the best materials for centuries in some cases, due to their reliability and comfort,” says Mendoza. “We are only now understanding the impact of the alternative, more modern synthetic materials on our health and the environment — especially those that are chemically treated.”
However, note that because synthetics like nylon dry faster than natural materials like cotton, you may still consider them as an option for working out in the summer when you know you’ll sweat a lot. Check out our sustainable activewear guide for more on that.
How to shop natural fibers with affordability in mind
Checking the tag before you throw on a shirt or a pair of pants in the summer can be a total game-changer. Sometimes articles look like they’re cotton when really they’re synthetic, and others are blends of both natural and synthetics — and those can be decent options in the breathability department, but not as ideal as totally natural pieces.
Like we always suggest, start with what you already own this summer, going through the tags in your closet to see what’s made of cotton, linen, or hemp, and what’s not. (And while we like wool and silk, two other great natural materials, they’re not as breathable for the summertime.) Maybe that blouse you thought was nice and cooling is made of a tightly woven polyester, keeping you warmer than you want on sweltering days.
“Start with what you already own this summer, going through the tags in your closet to see what’s made of cotton, linen, or hemp, and what’s not.”
Consider colors and cuts, too — light colors won’t draw in extra heat when you’re in the sun. And wide-legged pants, flowy shirts, and summery dresses that skim over your body rather than fit to it make a world of difference in terms of feeling cool, too.
Next, check out your local thrift stores, or online options like Depop or ThredUP, for the best deals on clothing with natural fabrics. While linen and organic cotton tend to cost more since they’re more ethically produced, you can find fantastic deals secondhand — I’ve scored pieces like a linen dress and loose cotton trousers for less than $20 this way.
“Natural fabrics don’t wear and tear as quickly as something made with synthetic material,” says Lewis. “So while they may seem like an investment at the start, you’ll get more use out of natural fabrics than the fast fashion alternatives.”
“While linen and organic cotton tend to cost more since they’re more ethically produced, you can find fantastic deals secondhand.”
And if you’re shopping new, some sustainable brands are more affordable than others. We love Pact, Quince, and Everlane, some of the most affordable sustainable brands. Pact has plenty of summery pieces made of nothing but cotton and/or linen, and Everlane is great for more elevated pieces and workwear — just check the label before you buy. Quince has impressively low linen prices, and Mollusk Surf Shop has some great affordable hemp basics, too.
The next time you’re shopping — whether it’s your closet or a store — check the materials tag. Reaching for 100% natural fabrics might just give you your coolest summer yet.
Natalie Gale is a Contributing Editor at The Good Trade. She is a Boston-based freelance journalist. When she’s not writing about art, food, or sustainability, you can find her biking to the farmers’ market, baking, sewing, or planning her next Halloween costume. Say hi on Instagram!